Vietnam’s ancient fish sauce tradition, led by Bui Van Phong’s family, now faces threats from climate change, overfishing, and industrial competition. The decreasing availability of anchovies jeopardizes both the craft and cultural significance, while Vietnam seeks to enhance its role in the global fish sauce market, projected to grow significantly in the coming years.
Bui Van Phong, after the Vietnam War, chose to remain in his village and uphold his family’s tradition of making fish sauce, known as nuoc mam. This craft, recognized as a vital part of Vietnam’s cultural heritage, is now continued by his son Bui Van Phu. Phu emphasizes the importance of both quality and historical value in their product.
Currently, their fish sauce production faces threats, not only from mass-producing conglomerates but also from climate change and overfishing, which are affecting the availability of anchovies, a key ingredient. Warmer ocean temperatures are decreasing oxygen levels, leading to concerns about fish sizes and populations. Renato Salvatteci’s research indicates that fish species have limits to adapt to these changes.
These rising temperatures threaten marine life ecological balance, potentially resulting in smaller, less nutritious fish and higher fishing costs. Anchovies play a crucial role as a food source for other fish and in fish meal for farmed fish. Additionally, overfishing and political tensions in the South China Sea complicate management, as fishing trends show stagnation despite increased efforts.
A 2021 assessment warned that even with efforts to limit global warming, significant fish stock losses in the South China Sea are likely. Phu, who also teaches IT, dedicates much effort to perfecting the traditional fish sauce-making process, which involves fermenting anchovies with sea salt in terracotta barrels.
However, decreased fish catches, with anchovies now harder to find, affect his ability to maintain quality. Many traditional producers are contemplating leaving the business due to rising anchovy prices. This influences Vietnam’s aim to increase its share in the growing global fish sauce market. With the market projected to grow from $18.5 billion in 2023 to nearly $29 billion by 2032, improvements in food safety standards are crucial for success in export markets.
Vietnam’s culture is intricately linked to fish sauce; its flavor is a vital aspect of Vietnamese cuisine and resonates deeply with expatriates. Each family possesses unique recipes and methods. Phu is eager to pass down their techniques to his son but is wary of future challenges. He notes, “Fish sauce to me is not just a condiment for cooking. But it is our craft, our culture, our tradition that need to be preserved, safeguarded and inherited.”
The tradition of fish sauce making in Vietnam is under significant threat from climate change and overfishing, alongside competition from mass-producing companies. As environmental factors challenge the availability of essential anchovies, the cultural heritage tied to the craft faces uncertainty. With ambitions to expand its role in the global market, overcoming these environmental and economic obstacles is crucial for the future of this culinary tradition.
Original Source: www.usnews.com
